Mt. Kinabalu

It was a big check to my list of mountain targets. It was my first ever international climb. Finally, the vision of climbing Mt. Kinabalu in Malaysia materialized!

Mt.Kinabalu Trail Map

Early 2013 when I invited some of my close friends in the Lingkod community to join me and Buddy Dennis in our pursuit to reach the said mountain. Yes, it was my initiative and therefore I was the primary organizer of this climb event.

Few Things I Know About Mt. Kinabalu

Mt. Kinabalu is the highest mountain in Southeast Asia towering Sabah, Malaysia (Borneo Island) at 4,095 meters above sea level and the 20^th highest mountain in the world.It's located and protected in Kinabalu National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Obviously it’s higher than Mt. Apo, the highest in the Philippines. One of the said legends tells that the name was originated from the Chinese Widow (“Kina” and “Balu’). It’s a story of a Chinese man who went to Kota Kinabalu, met and loved a woman but eventually went back to China. He made a promise to come back but it never happened. The woman was left lonely, so in loneliness and with a significant time of waiting” ascended to the mountain and eventually died there. Well, this is only one of the recognized tales.

For the Filipino mountaineers, they say, it’s the first step to give an alpine climbing a try. Although it doesn’t snow in Mt. Kinabalu, and I guess, it really won’t, being situated in a tropical country.

Organizing the Event and Preparation

Organizing the event wasn’t easy. I can say it was a preparation of almost a year (three-fourths of the year to be exact). In the middle of the preparation, I almost regretted at taking the head of the event. The target number to create our team was maximum of 12 persons in order to achieve saving costs of the trip. Some were unsure, some expressed the desires but didn’t actually join, some of the concerns were the conflict of schedules and some talked about the budget which was very crucial since we are talking about setting and reserving an international climb and it involves a big amount of money.

Our set schedule was the long weekend in October to November wherein two days of it would probably be declared as holidays because of the All Saints Day which comes before the weekend. The first main step for us was to look for a discounted air fare. It was only in April or May when Buddy and I got the one-way ticket while some of us got round trip tickets in June. Luckily, we also got the corresponding one-way return tickets on the same month. After booking, there was no way to turn our backs. The next step was the reservation of the climb itself. This involved identifying first what exactly we are going to do. We didn’t settle for the usual/normal climb. We wanted a Ferrata activity.  Via Ferrata is an add-on activity managed by the Mountain Torq which to my first understanding, includes rock climbing and rappelling with safe equipments. It might be our first and last visit there and we wanted to experience it to maximize our climb.

According to my friend who went there two years ago and did the usual back and forth climb, it should be the Sutera Lodges to keep in touch with. Here’s the website/link of the Sutera where you can acquire all the information you need.

http://www.suteraharbour.com/v4/index.php/navigation/mount-kinabalu

Another friend of ours who did the Ferrata early 2013 told me that it must be the Mountain Torq to inquire with. I got in touch with the Mountain Torq and let them know our desired schedule of climb. 

For more information, you may check this out:

http://www.mountaintorq.com/

We never settled that easy as our team didn’t agree right away. Good thing we made it happen to meet for a pre-climb meeting to discuss all the concerns. It was in July. The main concern was the budget. What also got me worried was that, we had to make full payment before the actual climb and we had to do it online. It was obviously more costly to avail the ferrata package. The sure participants that time was nine but two of us decided to back out. Thankfully, majority of us were very determined to join and ended up as seven participants to make the team. 

We were not able to get replies from Mountain Torq anymore when we reverted to them. Perhaps, the slots were no longer available. However I remembered what our friend mentioned (the one who gave us the Mountain Torq idea), that this Mountain Torq would eventually endorse us to a travel agency. We googled and did further research. Thank heavens as Buddy Dennis found the Amazing Borneo Tours. They have a reasonable ferrata package although it excludes the permit fees and other basic climb fees. When we compared it with the case of arranging it on our own, it’s almost the same. So we decided to pay them for arranging those fees. This gave us convenience because all we got to do was to climb.

Here’s the inclusion of the package they offer along with other details of the climb:

http://www.amazing-borneo.com/mount-kinabalu/mount-kinabalu-climb-via-ferrata-lows-peak-circuit-timpohon-abk-mk05.html

By the way, we had a good experience with Amazing Borneo Tours. During the duration of reservations, payments and inquiries, they were easy to communicate with and they delivered good service when we got there in our actual trip (i.e. picking us up from the airport and taking us back there). The only thing that was never given to our favour was the non-refundable down payment of our supposed to be companion (eighth participant) who backed out one month before the climb, although I still understand since it was in their policy. (Friendly reminder: Ensure that you got only the sure participants/companions to avoid this hassle. It was actually financial matters that was really very crucial). As you can see, we had to act as a group to avail the discount for 7-15pax.

The Climb

This is the complete illustrative map of our journey:

We were a group of 7 persons. Four of us were ahead of flight schedule and so four of them were able to go around the Kota Kinabalu City prior to the climb. As for the rest of the team which included me, it was only at 2am of October 31 when we arrived at Kota Kinabalu International Airport and we spent our time/slept there until Amazing Borneo bus fetched us at 6am and afterwards, those who were already checked in at a lodge inside the Kota Kinabalu City. Day 1 of our climb started! I think we were the only team they served on that day. From Kota Kinabalu City is a 3-hour drive to the Mt. Kinabalu Park. When we passed by the portion where the entire Mt. Kinabalu can be viewed, I was in awe. It's such a very huge mountain rock and it's beautiful. 

When we arrived at the park, it was cold already and we waited for our guide and porters.  We saw many climbers of different nationalities. It was my first time to climb a mountain encountering a lot of climbers from different parts of the world.  We were picked up by another Amazing Borneo staff and was given another ride to the starting point. He also gave us our packed lunch which is included in our Ferrata package. 

We started our trek in Timpohon gate. We intended to do a traverse but due to time constraints and probably tired bodies on the second day, we did not actually do the traverse via Mesilau trail (which will be discussed later on this post). Some of the mountaineers I talked with and other sources advised us to ascend thru to Timpohon because it is shorter than Mesilau trail and the fact that we have a cut off time to beat (3pm for the Ferrata briefing and summit assault at Pendant Hut), Timpohon is more practical. Mesilau is 2 kilometers longer than Timpohon.

The group: Frank, Bev, Ting, Pau, Qitter, Matelle, Dennis

The trail is established and not technical and if you had a good preparation and warm up, you can say that it is relatively easy. However it is still steep just like any mountain.

established trail and rich vegetation

man-made stairways

 The first two of us in the team took us 6 hours to reach the Pendant and I was actually nervous because I thought we won’t get there at the cut off time.

There are parts of the trail with built in stairs made of woods and even with hand rails. What also amused us was the presence of squirrels which are not in fear of climbers but instead almost getting closer waiting for any trail food to be shared with them. 

squirrel, a playful creature

Pau, feeding and playing with a squirrel

We also had the chance to get along with some Thai people who said they are TV crew documenting the Kinabalu Park but I think they intended only to reach fewer/lower parts. It was a great experience to meet and greet ascending and descending fellow Asians, Europeans and Australian climbers. Some of the Malaysian people that we met mistakenly saw us as Malays (because of the same features).

with Thai TV crew

The total kilometers that we trekked until Pendant Hut were 8.72 kilometers. There is one shelter where you can rest after every one or two kilometer-walk. Since I didn’t get enough training for this (my last climb was in early August and I didn’t get the chance to have at least a training run), I endured a lot of muscle pains.   

Bev, having a rest in a shelter

The point at which we were at more than 2000MASL, it’s seriously getting colder and we seemed to breathe with thinner air. At around 1am, it rained and according to the guide, it is a normal case there and it’s not because we're having a bad weather. It was very cold when we reached the pendant hut. It was also the point where Sutera Lodges are.

the Pendant Hut

An amazing view of huge rock mountain peak wowed us as we catch our breath ascending more to the Pendant Hut. It is what we would be climbing on the next day to reach the summit although the summit is not yet visible from there. Paulo and I were the first two in our team to reach it. We decided to get there faster to ensure that at least two of our team beat the cut off time, we were actually 30-minute late. We arrived at 3:30PM. The staff there started to discuss the briefing to the first 5 other foreign climbers so we were just told to wait for the rest of the team (and the rest should at least arrive by 4pm). We’re the second batch to listen to the briefing. We were taught step by step procedures on how to use the rope and act as a team. I’m not good in rock climbing so I was a little scared for tomorrow. I was just afraid to make a mistake. After that, we proceeded to the Sutera Lodges (as far as I know, it’s where to stay at for those climbers who won’t be doing the Ferrata). It’s just 10minutes away from Pendant Hut.

It was a buffet type dinner and it is served early because the wake up call the next day would be before 2am for the summit assault to chase for the sunrise. But even if we knew that a beautiful sunrise could await us for tomorrow, a very beautiful sunset from there during that time initially amazed us. It was really a beautiful and very touching view. 

a dramatic and breathtaking sunset..

By the way, the food and place are great and we really, really maximized the buffet. :D

the group, with new friend, Vanessa

We went back to Pendant Hut to get ready for rest and sleep. I enjoyed the hot Sabah tea mixed with milk/creamer. I really liked it that I drank many cups of it the entire duration of our stay. It was very perfect and soothing for a cold place like that. 

Seven of us occupied one dorm-type room with 4 double decks. Another Filipina climber also joined us, Vanessa (whom we were able to meet earlier at the airport, but she was under a different travel agency. So we’re a total of 8 persons in the room. I prepared myself for such cold night so I wrapped myself with 2 jackets, hoods and bonnets that when I woke up, I really got perspired. I thought I was over reacting but I guess it’s better than to leave myself unguarded from the coldness of the temperature. Generally, the room we occupied in the Pendant Hut is warm and comfortable. Beddings are also provided.

"uber" wrapped.. LOL

We woke up at 1:30 am, breakfast was ready already and after preparing the necessary things for the summit assault, we were fetched by the guides. The trail is a continuous ascent with some part of the trail with built-in stairways. Few meters to reach the Sayat-Sayat Hut, the trail that we have to ascend have some assisting ropes. Even though we don’t have heavy loads, it is still tiring since it seems like a nonstop ascent and deprivation of oxygen are major factors to difficulty in breathing. I got some colds and it’s kinda hurtful to my nose, well that’s my experience. We reached the point that everything around is an open rock trail. The sun gave us a hint that it shall start rising. The low’s peak is the very summit of the mountain and before reaching it, you have to climb a pile of large rocks. There are already many climbers at the top especially the Koreans. Whew! I got to reach it. 

Low's peak -- this marks the summit of Mt. Kinabalu

The six of us got to reach the summit. First five of us reached it as we need to beat the 7:30am cut off time for the commencement of Ferrata activity. Bev, together with Vanessa decided not to reach the summit. According to her, after reaching the Sayat-Sayat Hut at 3,668 MASL, they went down and instead did the Walk the Torq. Ting, wasn’t able to beat the cut off time for the Ferrata but still pursued the summit. So it’s only the five of us who were able to do the Low's Peak Circuit

The Ferrata

Via Ferrata in Mt. Kinabalu, as mentioned is managed by Mountain Torq, is said to be world’s highest one.

An excerpt from Wikipedia:

A via ferrata (Italian for "iron road", plural vie ferrate or in English via ferratas ) is a protected climbing route found in the Alps and certain other locations. The essence of a modern via ferrata is a steel cable which runs along the route and is periodically (every 3 to 10 metres (9.8 to 33 ft)) fixed to the rock. Using a via ferrata kit, climbers can secure themselves to the cable, limiting any fall. The cable can also be used as aid to climbing, and additional climbing aids, such as iron rungs (stemples), pegs, carved steps and even ladders and bridges are often provided. Thus via ferrata allow otherwise dangerous routes to be undertaken without the risks associated with unprotected scrambling and climbing or need for climbing equipment (e.g. ropes).

Mountain Torq’s via Ferrata has two types: Walk the Torq and Low’s Peak Circuit.

Walk the torq is shorter than the Low’s Peak circuit.

We opted to do the Low’s peak circuit so our package contains that. Being tired from the summit assault on that dawn, it wasn’t easy to finish the circuit. But it was quite fun. Although it was sort of nerve wrecking for me, it was indeed fun and full of adventures activity. In here, we’re protected by harness, and you will do the step by step transfer of the rope in order for your team to move (it was like we’re doing it for 3 hours that some of us were joking that such steps that we seemed to master already will be brought to our dreams when we sleep). 

the five of us at the starting point of Low's Peak Circuit

I was nervous because it was steep and my gloves are very slippery to hold on to the wire ropes. I decided not to use gloves. Although it’s hurtful to the hands, I think it’s better as I gained more confidence because I know my hands will not slip away. It was fun because as we do the descent via the wire ropes, we were doing some conversations and teasing each other. We found out that these Malaysian guides were able to watch some of the Filipino teleseryes that they imported from the Philippines like Mula sa Puso and Pangako Sa’yo. LOL. While doing this, our safety was assured by them and we also took care of our own selves while moving. We crossed the other rocks through a monkey bridge  adding more adventure to the activity. We were told to let go of the ropes and bend backward from the wall rock . It was hard for me. The guide told to me meaningfully, “you have to learn to let go!” aww!

The second part of this is a 30-minute jungle trekking and finally another series of descent via ropes. They say this series is one of the portions in Walk the Torq. Because of the tiredness, I asked the guide if we can skip this one and descend via easier alternative trail. But we had no choice! We still had to do it in order to reach back the Pendant Hut. All of us was almost drained in strength and thank God we were able to complete it on an average duration (7:30am to 11:30am). From the last point of Low’s peak circuit was around 15minutes trek and we could barely move our legs. We were so thankful to the guides for taking care of us and we also enjoyed their company.

We ate our very late breakfast (or shall I say BRUNCH – breakfast and lunch) and took some nap to regain our strength. We packed up. I drank 2 more cups of sabah tea, before leaving at 2pm. It was raining during our descent. We were so tired that we didn’t entertain anymore the traverse thru Mesilau. All that we wanted to do was to finish the climb. Paulo, Qitter and Buddy Dennis were the first to arrive and finish while I arrived  at around 5:30pm. We waited for the rest and thankful to the Amazing Borneo van for fetching us. It was already dark. Our tiredness was relieved when we got our certificates for completing the Kinabalu climb and Ferrata. We traveled back to Kota Kinabalu city and arrived at 9pm.

*see my next post for continuation
**photo credits: Qitter Vhostek

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Mt. Kanlaon Traverse

At this point in time, I couldn’t vividly remember  every little thing that happened four months ago. It was my first ever mountain to climb in Visayas. It was Mt. Kanlaon Traverse.  I also declared it as the tail mountain of my enthusiastic mountaineering quest. Yes, it was the last one of my very frequent hiking activities. It was only after two months did I hike again. Afterwards, I never did. Things changed.

Yet in my heart, the Mt. Kanlaon climb that we completed was one of the unforgettable climbs and it did give me lessons and a lot of realizations. Apart from these, one of the great things is that I can claim now that I have reached the highest mountains  in each part of the archipelago. In 2011, I have conquered Mt. Pulag , the roof of Luzon via different trails, 2012 when I reached Mt. Apo the highest not only in Mindanao but also in the country and this time, Mt. Kanlaon, the highest in the Visayas area.

Located in Negros Occidental, Mt. Kanlaon is an active volcano and the recent volcanic activity that it performed was only in 2006. There are already numbers of fatalities especially for the climbers in this mountain, hence, it is fearsome and dangerous as you’ll never know when this mountain is going to erupt, calm or behave. Being the highest not only in Negros region but as well as in the entire Visayas, it has its own kind of difficulty and therefore a major climb. 

Prior to this climb, hmmm just about two or three weeks before, I participated in a Mt. Halcon climb which is really a major climb as you may already read it in my other post. And this became my training advantage. 

 

Our entire climb (supposed to be a 3-day climb) was a 4-day Wasay to Guintubdan traverse. We started the hike in Mambucal mountain resort (Wasay side at the town of Murcia) early in the morning where we spent one night before. We walked to the gate of the Kanlaon National Park. 

 

 What I love about the trek is the richness of the forest and the serenity it seems to bring me along with the noise of the birds chirping and different kinds of insects. If one listens carefully during the trek, one can hear a variety of birds singing. I was heading the trek along with the guide. The guide actually mentioned every kind of birds’ singing but I could not remember those anymore.   The whole climb was trekking a forest trail and majority of what we passed through were covered by large trees. 

 There was a point when we crossed a concrete road. Funny how we took those hard trails and yet there’s an easier way. According to the guide, there would be another agreement or permit for that. And so then we crossed to and trekked another series of forest until we reached a mossy camp site where we spent our first night. It was very cold but calm night.

The next day was a lot of great views – Hardin Sang Balo and a lot of lagoons.  (During the trek, I memorized all the lagoons and the peaks, and now I couldn’t remember them all. I failed to write them down). We were actually in the middle of the mountain. We encountered different kinds of trails, both easy and hard ones; steady and steep ones. 

top view of the lagoon

another lagoon

The trail might cause us to really catch our breath but it was rewarding. From time to time, we took some break or 5 to 10-minute rest.  And these were precious moments of bonds, stories, jokes and laughter. 

one at a time, this is the 90 degrees ascent that we did in Wasay

 In this second day, upon approaching the second campsite. We originally planned to camp at the saddle and open area near the summit of the mountain, but because nonstop heavy rained poured over us, we decided to settle at the covered campsite.

this is the lagoon we've seen on top

 The second night was very rainy and cold. We could hear the trees swaying and the sound of the wind was scary. Truly it was a good decision to stay in that campsite. I was texting my sister trying to catch news about the weather. There was a typhoon in the north and all these rains were caused by that typhoon—a southwest monsoon rain or habagat.

The following day came. The rain and wind never stopped. I suggested to buddy Dennis, the organizer to wait for another day. This bad weather might stop, i thought.  The typhoon was of course heading north and the weather here could change. However, three in the group decided to climb the summit on that day since they were chasing for their flight schedule. They did lunchtime and they decided to go down ahead of us.  Again, it was another night of cold winds and nonstop rains.

 

Another morning came: our fourth day. The weather didn’t improve but somehow it was lighter than the previous day. We had no choice but to target the summit. Yes it was still raining! Sadly, it was still raining. We trusted on the guides that they know better the mountain and they would not let us ascend if the condition is not tolerable. We prepared ourselves and started the summit ascent. Along the trail, the guide was pointing something on the side. He said, we could have seen great views if we were given better weather condition. Sad! :(  We continued until we reached the foggy saddle. I said to myself, “it should have been a great landscape here like what I saw in the internet photos. But since we’re here, we should take advantage to reach the summit/crater anyway.”

chasing for Mt. Kanlaon crater in this inclement weather

The steep rocky trail to the summit was not that easy as strong winds hindered us. The front person was the guide. This guide inspected first if it’s still tolerable to reach the crater. During this trek,he told us stories of deaths of some climbers because of the zero visibility. Everyone of us  for sure was taking extra care. I was scared. I wanted to back off. But seeing everyone of us, they seemed determined to reach the summit anyway. True enough, we reached it, but we were holding each other’s hands fighting for the winds. The guide instructed us to hide and protect ourselves through the pile of rocks on that peak.  We never minded glancing what’s inside the crater. It was too dangerous.

at the summit/crater, at last!

We literally survived it! But it was our choice to still ascend amidst bad weather. It isn’t advisable.

On that same day, we descended via Guintubdan trail and it was quite easier and shorter. It’s still raining. It came to my awareness that the other group who did the backtrail climb (via Guintubdan only) had a great summit view. It really could be. Remember that we had a good weather on our first day until mid second day. 

The highlight of the Guintubdan trail was the large, majestic falls called Busay Buslugan. 

By the way, during the trek, we encountered some limatik (mountain leeches) on both Wasay and Guintubdan trails so better be ready on this for those who want to climb it too.

From there was few hours until we reached the end point of the trek. When we’re reaching the end point, it was residential area, and there are lots of chickens all over the area. I told myself, true enough "Inasal" is famous here. LOL. I was joking to myself  along with wet body,  tired feet and painful muscles brought about by the 4-day climb.

 

We just bought pasalubong in Bacolod city and finally headed to airport. The weather didn’t improved that much. Still I can say it’s a remarkable climb. Perhaps, I should take just the Guintubdan trail and hopefully see the majestic landscape of this mountain on my second attempt. I realized, you cannot always push on to something you want. Sometimes, hope isn’t enough. We waited one more day and nothing happened.  You cannot fight the nature’s force. Nevertheless, we were still blessed as we  remained safe the entire climb.

On the practical side, I vow not to make any major climb during August and September months in the Luzon and Visayas regions. On the 3 years of hiking experience during these months, I don’t know why I never learn the lesson of always experiencing stormy climbs during this season.

Photo credits: Qitter Vhostek, Dennis Hisanan and Rose Chan De Leon

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The Trekking

The sound of steps prevails over this silent forest.

I can hear various kinds of birds singing.

‘Sounds like mellow music to the ear, very soothing.

This is one of the rare, tranquil moments I like the best.

                                                              

In the middle of this dense forest, I find consolation.

A joy that comes from the touch of sunlight entering through the woods.

‘Seems like the trail is unending yet I continue to walk and speed up as much as I could

I would catch my breath, pause for a while, feel my heart beating..

I’m perspiring. But I do not mind, this is when I find comfort and satisfaction.

And oh, the rain! It comes with a cooling wind,

I embrace myself but would keep on stepping..

It’s inevitable, it’s actually irritating for the discomfort it brings..

In an unexplainable instance, I do appreciate the pouring.

How many hours will I still ascend?

How many energy will I still consume?

Thanks for the companions,

The bliss, the laughter, the spirit of friendship,

The extension of helping hands..

It all compensates. Rain or shine, you are all together in this voyage.

Bearing in mind the promise of splendor and majesty,

I would never give up in this kind of journey

of the very minimal people who choose to do it.

Having the prepared physical body and soul along brave spirit,

You may never make others understand the reasons behind.

But you know for yourself the deepest pleasure in trekking.

*inspired by Mt. Kanlaon Traverse (August 2013) . Complete story to be posted soon.

Photo credits: Qitter Vhostek

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